Everest - The First Ascent by Harriet Tuckey
How a Champion of Science Helped to Conquer the Mountain

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Banff Award for Mountain and Wilderness Literature
The British Sportsbook Award for Outstanding General Sports Writing
The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
Finalist for the HW Fisher Biographer's Prize
 Harriet Tuckey’s book is both the history of what went into the first successful ascent of Mt. Everest in 1953 and a biography of her father, Dr Griffith Pugh, whose role was absolutely pivotal, yet mostly untold. As the expedition’s physiological consultant, Pugh designed almost every aspect of the survival strategy for the expedition, the acclimatization program, the oxygen- and fluid-intake regime, the diet, the clothing and the high altitude boots. Without him and his work, the ascent of Everest would have been impossible.

About Harriet Tuckey

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Harriet Tuckey is the daughter of Dr. Griffith Pugh. She has a first class honors degree in Literature and an MA in the sociology of literature (University of Essex). She has worked as a researcher for the Fabian Research Institute and worked on the first national surveys commissioned by the British Government into race relations and unemployment. She joined the Civil Service in 1976 but left three years later when the first of her children was born.  When all three of her daughters were at university she joined them, reading for a postgraduate diploma in the History of Art at the Courtauld Institute, London specializing in Gothic Architecture and Northern Renaissance painting. She began work on this biography in 2004. It has already been awarded a prize by the Biographer's Club (judged by Margaret Drabble, John Guy and Anne de Courcy).
Published September 9, 2013 by Rider. 432 pages
Genres: Biographies & Memoirs, History, Sports & Outdoors, Travel. Non-fiction

Unrated Critic Reviews for Everest - The First Ascent


Ward, by contrast, was convinced that a more scientific approach was needed and he managed to get Pugh involved first in the preparatory British expedition to Cho Oyo, a 26,865ft peak near Everest, in 1952, and then on the Everest expedition proper in 1953.

May 25 2013 | Read Full Review of Everest - The First Ascent: H...

Library Journal

VERDICT Best suited to general readers or researchers interested in Mount Everest, the history of mountaineering, or the origins of high-altitude medicine and modern sports science, who may also consider Edmund Hillary’s High Adventure: The True Story of the First Ascent of Everest .

Apr 22 2013 | Read Full Review of Everest - The First Ascent: H...

In this combination of biography and mountaineering history, Tuckey examines the life and work of her father, British physician Griffith Pugh, who was among the first scientists to undertake in-depth research on the physiological aspects of climbing, including acclimatization, oxygen use, and hyp...

Apr 15 2013 | Read Full Review of Everest - The First Ascent: H...

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